A sleeper city in northern thailand with spicy food and sweet smelling air.

Flying into Chiang Rai after spending three days in Bangkok was a gift. Our time in Bangkok was turbulent, and landing among the mountains of Chiang Rai reminded me why I came to Thailand in the first place. Stepping off the plane, the air smelled like banana leaves. Throughout the airport floated the sound of…a Thai choir?! I let out an audible laugh of both relief and excitement to finally be embarking on the nature-inspired journey I had envisioned.

Accommodation & Transportation

We reserved a room at a guesthouse called Baan Din Chiang Rai (Baan meaning “house”, Din meaning “earth” or “soil”). The accommodation was quiet with the exception of their bow-wowing bulldog that stood ground on the premise. Situated off a side road not far from the city center, it felt like a little jungle oasis. One large bed and a simple shower. Perfect.

Okay, so our first stop was just like any first stop in a new place. FOOD!!! Being in a new and rural place, we relied on Trip Advisor for the first few days. In this case, we were so happy we did because this little bamboo joint cleverly called Pad Thai – Chiang Rai turned out to be some of the most fresh and flavorful Pad Thai we had in Thailand. Paired with a cold Singha and some fresh fruit, we were in paradise.

During lunch, we were warned by other tourists not to rent a motorbike, as they are dangerous and it is easy to be scammed by the renters. However, there was an apparent lack of Tuk Tuks in Chiang Rai, and we were on a budget, so we decided to risk it.

We rented from B-RIDER in downtown Chiang Rai. The renter was extremely skeptical of my abilities, so he offered me a lesson in a nearby temple parking lot. Typically, the price per day for a bike is 200THB (~$6USD), and the collateral is a passport. Some places will hang onto 3000THB (~$96USD), but it is more likely that you’ll be parting with your passport for a few days. If you find a place charging more that 250THB a day, move on. You’re getting a bad deal. Note: Renting the bike was the best thing we could have done for ourselves in Chiang Rai.

Temples in Chiang Rai

Wat rong khun (the White Temple)

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Our first journey on the new bike was short and easy – about 20 minutes outside the city to Wat Rong Khun, aka The White Temple. If you are interested in architecture, art, or temples, Chiang Rai may be worth it solely for The White and Blue Temples. However, before visiting The White Temple, I would suggest checking when it closes, and leaving yourself at least 1.5 to 2 hours to fully experience its intricacies. The cost of entry is 50THB.

wat rong suea ten (The Blue Temple)

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The Blue Temple was really something else. The colors, vibrant. The wind chimes and gong sounds, tranquil. We spent hours here, avoiding the hot temperatures inside the drafty temple. The temple is new to the Chiang Rai landscape, which is perfect for curious tourists who want to explore without being too bothered by large crowds. I would recommend spending at least 1-2 hours here. Entrance is free!

Baan Dam (Black House)

This hidden gem of Chiang Mai was less of a traditional buddhist temple and more of an incredible art installation. Fifteen black houses like the one pictured here stand tall throughout the grounds of Baan Dam, each containing the remains of various animals. Though disturbing at times, the artists intentions were not lost. Baan Dam was an exploration of sorts, taking visitors through a journey of the true dark animal nature that lies within us all.

Doi In Ce and Mae Sai Waterfall

After getting a taste of how far the motorbike could take us, I was hooked. Some research lead us to a hidden monastery called Doi In Ce (you’ll quickly catch on that Doi means mountain, or hill). I will say, one of the best parts of this day though was the drive out there! Oh, the views!! About 1hr outside Chiang Rai, we drove past mountains and tea plantations like I had never seen before. We were pulling over every ten minutes to take pictures.

I was intrigued by how elusive Doi In Ce seemed – only accessible by hiking up a hidden set of 700 steps into the mountainside. The site was a little tricky to find, but Google maps was came in clutch through the end. We continued along the road until the hill was too steep for the motorbike to continue upwards, chaining the bike to a tree and continuing up hill on foot. It wasn’t an easy walk with the humidity, so I would recommend for those in decent shape. Bring lots of water!

The top was well worth the sweat! With a little more exploring at the summit, we found the biggest buddha I saw in all of Thailand. It was huge! This place was seriously a secret haven.

I found myself asking, “How do they get these massive statues up these hills?”… and my question was very quickly answered. We took a walk through the monastery and were greeted by dozens of friendly monks, who didn’t seem to mind visitors one bit. It was really interesting to walk through and see the various prayer spaces, bath houses, and even their pets – deer and peacocks! We stumbled upon these massive casts that are used to create the ceramic Buddha statues. So cool!

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After a hot day up at the monastery, it was time for a dip! We saw many waterfalls in Thailand, but this was one of the best ones. The falls were huge and the swimming hole at the bottom was inviting. Plus, it was just a short bike ride away from the base of Doi In Ce.

Another perk of the low season? We were the only ones here. Which meant skinny dipping!

So there you have it, four full action packed days in Chiang Rai. Something I did not include on this itinerary was a scenic drive through Mae Fah Luang University and gardens. Again, I would recommend to anyone to rent a bike anywhere in Thailand, given that you feel comfortable on it. It is a huge game changer if you’re not going to hire a private driver (which, for a budget trip, was not likely).

All in all, I loved Chiang Rai. While the city itself did not have a lot to offer in terms of nightlife, the proximity to the beauty of Northern Thailand’s wilderness made it a perfect stay for the nature lover.